Second Star on the Right

Friday 30 May 2008 - Bartolome Island

2008-11-09T01:30:00.000-08:00

After a day swimming with sharks and penguins, stumbling upon old turtle nests, grazing marine iguanas ....

...and lazy dozing sea lions that remind me of my little dog Bronte when she is asleep - no wonder these creatures are called the dogs of the sea ....

...you would think there was nothing left to do!

But not in the Galapagos!! It is truly an amazing place!!

But there was one more thing to do before we left this incredible island. We had to climb.

We climbed past lava channels and cinder cones and a landscsape that more resembled Mars than Earth. The dark volcanic dirt and the remnant volcanic vents that were the foundations of this island were uninviting and yet completely captivating.

Once we were at the summit John and I revealed our t-shirts which were part of a Bootcamp challenge! Although I'm still not sure that our trainers really know where we were and how special a place it is.

The low lying clouds threatened a thunger storm which never eventuated. The light was fading and we watched the sun set over an amazing part of our planet. As we pan you can see the classic outline of Pinnacle Rock. You may also notice the black soil and the absence of vegetation, except for the short spit connecting the remnant cinder cones.

To the right you can see a small flotilla of craft, including our own small Lobo del Mar.

The walk way has been constructed to protect the landscape from the ever increasing number of tourists to this most popular stop in the Galapagos Islands.

After descending and returning to our boat for the evening, the fauna entertainment had not finished!

John and I sat up again to watch the great spectacle which is the night sky. If you ever have the chance to get away from the lights of the industrialised world to gaze upon the raw power of the night sky, then you must.

If that experience is followed by such an intimate and empowering experience of a wild sea lion leaping up to sit up next to you like it did to me, then you would be indeed lucky and blessed!

While John and I watched the evening antics of the sea lions hunt for fish as we had the evening before, encouraged by a few beers we sat closer - sitting on the boats transom with our feet dangling it the water.

Look closely here and you can see an older male having a rest on the transom after we have vacated our seat (an after the fright of my life!!!)

While watching the torpedo like motion of seal lions after invisiable prey, I was frightened to death and thrilled to it as well when one seal lion launched itself up on to the transom right next to me!!!!

This was indeed the highlight of my time in the Galapagos. The cross section of life and landscape of such a remote and remarkable land has truly inspired me.

I will return.

Friday 30 May 2008 - Snorkelling Sullivan's Bay

2008-11-09T01:17:00.000-08:00

OK.
This is the same day. But it was such a completely different experience it needed its own entry.

Following our walk across the alien landscape of the Sullivan's Bay lava flow we had the opportunity to go snorkeling.

Now this was the second snorkeling experience of the trip. And I was still a little annoyed that I was unable to organise a proper SCUBA dive.

I had spent holiday funds doing my SCUBA course shortly before I left Sydney in the hope that I would be able to go diving and see hammerhead sharks, whale sharks, marine iguanas grazing on submarine algae, and the great variety of marine life that these islands support.

Sadly, there was not time. Nor qualified guide.

So, a poorly fitting mask and borrowed fins would have to make do.

After the previous day's experience I figured there would be the same vast array of fish.

Within minutes and metres of the coast, while I was still adjusting my ill fitting mask - there was my first shark!! A six foot white tipped shark!

All my life I have entered the water with a fear lurking in the back of my mind. Fear that a shark would suddenly appear.

Here in the strange and unfamiliar waters of the Galapagos within minutes of entering the water, such a creature appeared within a few feet of me!!

The fear that I expected never occurred. My reaction was one of amazement and curiosity and awe. We swan after it to get a closer look!!! Ironically the shark had to swim away from us!!!

I wish I had photos!

This swim was not finished with wonders. Not only did the same familiar schools of fish dominate the environment, but suddenly we were in the company of Galapagos penguins!! Darting around us in chase of small fish, like torpedoes with a singular aim at tiny silver things darting through the water before us.

If you want to visit the zoo, do so. If you want to be in the middle of all the animals - come to Galapagos!!!

The swim ended all too soon. I was hoping for more sharks, more penguins, more sea lions, more fish!!! And I would be rewarded later.

Friday 30 May 2009 - Late Morning - Sullivan's Bay (Sante Cruz Island)

2008-11-09T00:55:00.001-08:00

That's a long title I know. The location is right opposite Bartolome Island. It's the bay on the main land, Sant Fe. But the landscape could not be more different!

This is Sullivan's Bay. This is the land of LAVA.

Sullivan's Bay looks like its from a completely different time in a completely different galaxy, yet it's probably one of the youngest places on Earth.

These are the solidified lava flows of some of the most recent volcanic erruptions on Earth.

The last major erruption on Santiago was probably in the early 1900's. One observer aboard a sailing vessel reported that the ship approached the lava flow so closely that the pine tar used to seal the hull of the ship began to soften, and the captain had to hurry the ship away from the bay.

There are the most amazing lava flow formations!

I will have to make a completely different website dedicated to this place - every step revealed a different lava formation from a different time and lave flow. Despite the consistent black crystaline shimmer of the ground cover, the landscape was neither dead nor uninteresting. Every step was a revelation and an microcosm of speculation and analysis. That may sound silly but it was simply one of the most amazing and dynamic landscapes I have been priviledged to visit!!

There was virtually no sign of life. Yet the shapes and positions of the lava flows left no doubt that this place can MOVE and was that the Earth was ALIVE.

Friday 30 May 2008 Part One - Bartolome Island

2008-11-08T22:55:00.000-08:00

A Very Special Place.

The entry for this day has to be split into two. Both places we visited today were so special, but one more than the other, that I have to dedicate two entries for the whole day.

We woke to a beautiful morning anchored off Bartolome Island. It reminded me of my days in the Navy, and some of the things I still miss about that time in my life - waking up surrounded by water and a quiet that only the sea brings.

Only 200 metres from us lay a beautiful equatorial island with majestic rock formations, sandy beaches and the allure of strange and exotic life, thousands of miles away from civilisation. We were living on the edge of adventure. We were about to land on an exotic planet so strange. It was completely compelling.

The first thing we did after breadfast was a quick tour via zodiac of Bartolome Island.

Behind me in the picture is the most prominent and identifiable part of Bartolome - Pinnacle Rock. Some of you may recognise it from the movie Master and Commander. This is where they filmed to scene where Russel Crowe's ship met the pirates!

It truly is a magical place and has a long history of being a refuge for 18th Century pirates. Even after coming across the islands by accident, the Spanish did not even bother to chart the islands because they were considered too hellish!

This small island located just off Sullivan Bay east of Santiago. It is a desolate island with few plants is the most visited and most photographed island in the Galapagos.

The island consists of an extinct volcano and a variety of red, orange, green, and glistening black volcanic formations. The best known of the island's features is the Tuff Cone known as Pinnacle Rock. This large black partially eroded lava formation was created when magma expelled from the volcano reached the sea. When the seawaters cooled the hot lava it caused an explosion. The exploded particles eventually fasten together forming a rock composed of thin layers. You can see many more smaller examples of this formation around the island.

As an interesting note, this prominent sight was used as a target for US airmen during WWII. When you think of all the museums and art galleries and other historical sites bombed in Europe and Great Britain during both world wars, it gives you a different perspective to think such a lonely rock thousands of miles away was affected by the same moments in human history!

Right next to Pinnacle Rock is the beach where we later snorkelled. Unfortunately the day we were there the water was a little murkey and we didn't get to see much sea life.

The island is pretty barren. It is only a small island based largely on volcanic rock so there is little vegetation.

Seasonally Bartolome is the mating and nesting site for the Green Sea Turtles. We didn't get to see any turtles, but there were fresh tracks leading to a nest (see pic below.)

Green Sea Turtles do not mate for life or form bonds with their mates. Both the males and females of the species have many partners each season. Peak mating occurs between November and January.

Females come ashore at night during high tide to lay more than 80 eggs at a time. The female may lay eggs 8 times per season. The female comes ashore and digs a pit with her flippers near the high water mark. After laying the eggs she covers them with sand before returning to the sea. The process takes 3 to 4 hours.

The temperature of the incubation determines the sex of the young turtles. Eggs incubated at 82ºF will be males and those incubated at 90ºF will become females. The eggs hatch in approximately 2 months.

Very few of the hatchlings survive their first year of life. Eggs are vulnerable to pigs and goats, as well as the natural predator the Trox Suberosus Beetle. Sea Birds prey on the young turtles making their way from their nests to the sea. Once in the water Orcas, Sharks and Crabs feed on the turtles. With the high mortality rate and disappearing nesting grounds around the world Green Sea Turtles are now an endangered species and the Galapagos breeding grounds is an important area for the preservation of these creatures. However we were lucky enough to still see one very young turtle off the stern of our boat on our last night. It was little bigger than the palm of my hand. It was an amazing sight, but I still wondered whether it would survive the night.

After this morning ride we visited the most alien place on Earth!

See the next post!!!!

Thursday 29 May 2008 - Bartolome Island

2008-11-08T17:12:00.000-08:00

Pinnacle Rock - Master and Commander!

From Rabida we sailed to Bartolome Islands for an overnight stay.

En route we stopped at Flamingo Island - an old volcanic cone now a large lake and home to thousands of pink flamingos.

Sadly there were only a handful the evening we stopped by. The lack of rainfall had depleted the lake and most of the flamingos had sought fresh water elsewhere.

From the moving deck it was difficult to get a good photo. In the photo to the right you can clearly make out the shape of the old volcanic cone, but unfortunately you can't see into the inland lake.

We weren't the only on-lookers either - the large National Geographic vessel was also in company with us.

A little larger than our modest craft. We were all headed for the same spot - an anchorage just off Bartolome Island, made famous recently for its appearance in the film Master and Commander.

In the next post you'll recognise Pinnacle Rock which is a great geologic feature that stands out in the film.

For now a quiet night lay ahead. Well for most people.

John and I stayed up after dinner. The view of the heavens from the upper deck was just too spectacular to leave.

You could see the Southern Cross to the South - something the North Americans loved to have pointed out. And to the North you could also make out the North Star - Polaris.

The remainder of the sky was thick with that greater milky spread of stars and galactic clusters.

After everyone else went to bed, John and I were attracted to a splashing off the stern of the boat. Here, one of the ships lights had been left on. It flooded the water off the stern. In and around it half a dozen sea lions chased the fish that the light attracted. It was an amazing show of water acrobatics!

In amongst the playful sea lions was a tiny sea turtle, no bigger than the palm of my hand, also swimming around in the light. Wow.

Once again, the life in Galapagos just overwhelmed us.

Tomorrow we'd visit one of my favourite sites in the whole of the islands - but it would have nothing to do with wild life!

Climbing in the snow

2008-11-08T02:55:00.000-08:00

Climbing Mt Cotopaxi.

If you look back to an earlier post you can read all about Mt Cotopaxi. It's an equatorial volcano, still active and spatially the closest point on the Earth to the Sun.

We were heading for the caldera, but to be honest we probably needed a much longer day. What we also needed was much better weather.

Our guide humoured us and took us to the second base camp. By that time the weather was closing in and it would have been madness to continue.

See the weather we were hiking in!

2008-11-08T02:21:00.000-08:00

So, if the last post worked my video uploads are starting to work.

This was our room in Santiago. It was a great little hotel, sadly on a very busy road, but on the upside was close to some great restaurants.

See ya next time.

Back to Blogging - More details of the trip!

2008-08-02T19:57:00.000-07:00

Hi to anyone still checking this out!

I have sorted out some issues with uploading my video - although I have still spent several hours tonight trying to find out why it still has trouble.\

Despite that I am solidering on - I won't give in.

Below is a test - it's night two in Santiago and I'm convinced that we've slept through a whole day! My watch was doing something weird and I couldn't account for an entire day!

It was not funny at the time - I thought we'd missed our flight to Equador!

If this works - I'm still waiting for Blogger to process the video - I should be able to upload some more interesting stuff from our trip to the Galapagos Islands!

Thursday 29 May 2008 - Rabida Island

2008-08-02T18:36:00.000-07:00

The afternoon excursion took us to the island of Rabida which is the 11th biggest island in the archipelago, but still only about 2 square miles in area!

It's composition is largely scoria, created by explosive eruptions when hot lava meets sea water.

Scoria has high levels of iron that gives it a red color and the island's coast is characterised by tall red cliffs and a red beach.

The single volcano that resulted in the island's formation is extinct. A small lagoon behind salt bush that line the beach is one of the best places to see flamingos. Unfortunately there were none to be seen today.

While waiting to go ashore a few of us were treated by the sight of a sea turtle which swam up to our boat then dived deep beneath! Just a tantalising taste of the wild life we would encounter over the next week.

Ashore we could also see a few sea lions frolicking on the beach and in the surf.

After a short walk to where the flamingos should have been, we returned to the beach where we had left our snorkelling gear. We were greated by a rare sight - a Galapagos Eagle, perched just out of reach....

A really spectacular bird, with no apparent fear of humans being so close - something that we would learn was common among the inhabitants of these islands!

A short walk along the beach bought us to a Pelican colony and a group of playful fur seals, but the real surprise lay beneath the waves.

Our first snorkelling adventure for this trip would reveal an amazing array of beautiful tropical fish, in numbers so vast that it was impossible to no which way to look, especially when you had found yourself right in the middle of a whole cloud of fish!! King Angel Fish, Yellow Tails, Blue Chin Parrot Fish, Rainbow Wrasse, Streamer Hogfish, Black Tip Cardinal Fish! The variety was just amazing!

Fears about the depth of water which had increased rapidly only metres from the shore, or the prospects of sharks or any other danger were quickly forgotten!

The Galapagos was living up to its reputation as a haven for a vast array of wild life and sea creatures!

Thursday 29 May 2008 - Cerro Dragon, Santa Cruz

2008-08-02T18:11:00.000-07:00

Our first landing was at a place called Cerro Dragon on the North West coast of Sant Cruz.

This place is so named because it is populated by a large number of land iguanas. However, there weren't many to be seen on this trip! We saw their dens and a great many wasps, one of which stung John and a very unhappy young lady in our group!

My highlight for this outing was seeing my first Marine Iguana.
These pre-historic looking animals really captured my imagination. They spend the mornings absorbing the warmth of the sun through their jet black scales then foraging for sub-marine algae the rest of the day. These little creatures have evolved the ability to dive under water in search of coastal algae which is their sole source of food. Changing ocean temperatures and tidal fluctations which affect the growth of the algae as well as oil spills have had dramatic impact on marine igauana populations in the last 10 years.

The landscape on this part of the island reminded us very much of the bushland of Australia. Hot and dry at this time of the year and the soild bright red, we could easily have been in Central Australia.

After a morning here, we re-joined our vessel and headed to our next site of interest, Rabida Island.

Which Superhero Are You?

2008-07-29T22:20:00.000-07:00

Your results:
You are Superman

Superman		85%
Robin		77%
Batman		70%
Supergirl		60%
Green Lantern		60%
Hulk		55%
The Flash		55%
Wonder Woman		40%
Iron Man		40%
Spider-Man		35%
Catwoman		30%

You are mild-mannered, good,
strong and you love to help others.

Wednesday 28 May 2008 - Galapagos Islands - The Arrival

2008-07-24T05:55:00.000-07:00

On Tuesday night we met the rest of our group at the hotel. John and I were amazed to see that we would be two of the youngest on board! After a short upset about the price of beer on board we all retired ready for the early transfer to Quito airport the next morning and our flight to Baltra Island Airport in the Galapagos Islands. The flight was mercifully short and our world transformed from one of rain and snow to brilliant sunshine and turquoise coastal beaches!

A quick bus ride from the airport took us to the ferry service which shuttled all arrivals to the main island of Santa Cruz. GPA Adventures, our tour operator then provided our own tour bus to take us across land to the capital Puerto Ayroa. Puerto Ayora is one of only two main settlements in central Galápagos, Ecuador. Located on the southern shore of Santa Cruz Island, it is the seat of Santa Cruz Canton. Named after Isidro Ayora, an Ecuadorian president.

The town is sometimes mistakenly referred to as Santa Cruz. (http://www.wikipedia.com/) On arrival in Puerto Ayero we were transferred to the Lobo Del Mar - our home for the next week. The boat was basic but comfortable. But the surroundings were inspiring!

Our accommodation was fairly basic but comfortable, and John quickly made himself at home, struck down by the sudden change from mountain cold to equatorial humidity!!
Our first shore excursion would be within 30 minutes!

Stay tuned for Lonely George and gay tortoise action at the Darwin Research Station!

Wednesday 28 May 2008 - Charles Darwin Foundation, Santa Cruz

2008-06-09T23:30:00.000-07:00

The Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz

The Darwin Station is the working Galapagos based branch of the international, non-profit Charles Darwin Foundation. Established in 1959, the Darwin Station works closely with the Galapagos National Park Service protecting the Galapagos Islands and Galapagos Marine Reserve .

Its primary function is to conduct scientific operation, research and assists other researchers within the Galapagos National Park and Galapagos Marine Reserve and also works providing environmental education to communities and schools within the islands, and to tourists visiting the Galapagos Islands. The Darwin Station has developed the curriculum for Galapagos Guides including the study of the Island's natural history, conservation and preservation of the islands and visitors can see the Tortoise breeding and rearing project at work.

There are numerous enclosures where young tortoises are bread. They are protected in enclosures with others of the same age.

One of the most famous residents is Lonely George. Lonesome George is the rarest creature in the world. He is the last known individual of the Pinta Island Tortoise, subspecies Geochelone nigra abingdoni, one of 13 tortoises of Galápagos tortoise native to the Galápagos Islands. George is estimated to be 60-90 years of age, and is in good health.

The other enclosure which caught every one's attention contained numerous other Galapagos tortoises.

Because of the delicate eco-system visitors are requested not to touch the animals, keep to designated paths and respect the animals and their protective enclosures. It's a shame John didn't see this sign until after he had broken EVERY RULE!!

We were lucky to catch two of them mating. Or so we thought!

The two caught below on film were actually two males! In fact there were no females in the enclosure. If you look closely you'll also note that the active male has got the wrong end of the other!

There were quite a few gasps of disbelief from the Japanese crowd on the other side who showed enthusiastic interest regardless!

The interesting part is that you can appreciate the concave and convex portions of the shells which fit together to form a suction hold - usually with a female - but it seems to work with two blokes as well. Not sure Nat Geo will pick up this footage for prime time!!

Following the tour we walked back through the township of Puerto Ayora to the jetty where waiting zodiacs took were to take us back to our boat. But not before I got held up by a local protest march. I wasn't permitted to cross the road before they had passed. Consequently I missed the boat! John returned in a zodiac with driver before long, but not without rolling his eyes! I wasn't the last time that I would be last! But hey! I'm taking the time to look around!

We sail overnight to our next islands. All I can say is 'iguanas'!!!

On the wings of Icarus - Cotopaxi!

2008-06-09T10:08:00.000-07:00

Cotopaxi is a stratovolcano in the Andes Mountains, located about 75 kilometres (50 mi) south of Quito. (wikipedia.org)

It is the closest point on the planet to the Sun!

And our first real adventure!

Cotopaxi has the only equatorial glacier and that was our objective - if only we could see it! As you can see the conditions were hardly ideal!

The mountain is clearly visible on the skyline from Quito, provided you can see through the pollution or it isn´t obscured by cloud as it was the entire time we were there. Even standing at the base of the mountain we never got a glimpse of the snow capped peak!

We left Quito city where it was raining - not a good start. We arrived at the first refuge - which has a better kitchen than I do at home!

Cotopaxi is the second highest summit in Ecuador, reaching a height of 5,897 m. It has one of the few equatorial glaciers in the world, which starts at the height of 5,000 metres (16,400 ft)., and that was our objective.

Pedro, our guide of the day, led the way. The rain soon gave way to snow. The weather really started closing in, and despite a good progress we were forced to abandon our ascent at the second refuge, Santa Barbara, at about 4500 metres! I was devasted. So close. But the weather really was turning nasty and we were not equipped for the conditions that lay ahead.

We turned back to base camp. Abour 4 hours and nearly 2500 calories later we arrived back at the car and retunred to Quito.

The exhilarating conditions and the prospect of looking down into a volcano calder has really whet my appetite for climbing.

I´d love the opportunity to come back one day and try again!

For now our next adventure awaited - the Galapagos Islands.

Struggle for existence, and natural selection (Charles Darwin, Origin of Species)

2008-06-09T09:48:00.000-07:00

The Galapagos Islands

This is the most amazing place on the planet to view an incredibly varied and remarkably fearless array of fauna!

The Galápagos Islands are an archipelago of volcanic islands distributed around the equator, 525 nautical miles (972 km/604 mi) west of continental Ecuador in the Pacific Ocean Coordinates: 0°40′S, 90°33′W. (http://www.en.wikipedia.org/)

The Galapagos are truly remarkable and live up to and exceed all expectations.

From ´gay´Lonely George - an ancient Galapagos Tortoise who spent the better part of 30 minutes trying to have sex with the head of a fellow male tortoise (wait til I work out how to upload the video footage of that one!) to dancing Blue Footed Boobies, swimming with white tipped sharks, penguins, sea lions and sea turtles this trip was truly unforgetttable!

Our journey began at the airport on Baltra Island, a quick transfer by ferry to Santa Cruz and on to Puerto Ayora where we met Lonely George at the Charles Darwin Research Foundation.

The Foundation´s aims are to assist in stabilising at-risk populations of Endemic species and educate the local population and visitors about preservation.

Our home away from home was a motor yacht, the Lobo Del Mar - no luxury liner, but adequate for our amazing tour of these remarkable islands.

My main interest and the reason for wishing to go to these islands, is the amazing Marine Iguana. This reptile has adapted to the coastal zones of the islands and feeds exclusively on algae which grows beneath the shallow waters around the rocky shores.

Little did I know that on our first shore excursion I would see one of these amazing creatures within the first few minutes!

These little creatures are jet black and look truly pre-historic.

The entries that will follow will detail our daily excursions around this remarkable part of our planet and the different species of wild life that are so prolific that you need to watch your every step for fear of standing on one of them!!

Santiago, Chile

2008-05-25T19:10:00.000-07:00

It´s our last night in Santiago.

There really isn´t much to report from here. It´s quite a large city with great unrealised potential.

Sadly we didn´t get out of the city to see some of the amazing countryside - perhaps next time when I come back to head south to Antartica in 2010.

Having difficulty downloading pics - so for those visually biased you´ll have to wait.

We depart in the morning for Quito, our gateway to the Galapagos Islands - there will be plenty to report from there and plenty of pics.

We did manage to make our pilgrimage to Cerro San Christbal to meet the Our Lady of the Imaculate Conception. If she can see through the smog she keeps an eye on the city from her perch atop the hill.

Given the atmospheric conditions in Santiago, everyone could get away with murder right under her nose!

Stand by.
Adios!
Manana!

Come Away! Come Away!

2008-05-22T07:51:00.000-07:00

"Second to the right, and straight on till morning."
That, Peter had told Wendy, was the way to the Neverland; buteven birds, carrying maps and consulting them at windy corners,could not have sighted it with these instructions. Peter, yousee, just said anything that came into his head. (Peter Pan, J.J. Barrie)

Tomorrow we catch our flight to Santiago, Chile!

Finally packed.

Here's the outline of the trip.

New video camera in hand, so there should be some interesting posts to watch out for!

As for tonight, my shadow and I are exhausted!

Time to find some sleep befoe the Flight!

No Pain No Gain

2008-05-20T15:05:00.000-07:00

This morning was our last Bootcamp session before departure.

One of the things I intend to do for the upcoming trip is detail the effort involved by recording my energy expenditure using my AXN700 Polar heart rate monitor.

This morning's stair session at Gordon's Bay was serious work - 904 kcal recorded.

Good training for the Inca Trail.

It'll be interesting to see how it compares to Day 2 of the trail - reportedly the toughest section of the hike. Watch this space.

Brendan Breaks Through

2008-05-16T03:30:00.000-07:00

All children, except one, grow up.

(Peter Pan, J Barrie)

When you're in your forties such a claim seems both more certain, and unlikely.

At what seems like a very late stage in life, I am about to embark on an adventure, a long time in my dreams. It seems late for me, because I'm impatient by nature.

By this time next week I shall be well on my way across the Pacific, bound for South America.

Both John and I are finally putting the doing into all the talking.

And I have Cousin Sarah to thank.

Sarah was the catalyst. Upon announcing that she was getting married, she also announced that I had a year to prepare, save and get moving.

Without that challenge, as simple and gentle as it seems, was all was needed.